One characteristic defines all World Champions. They don't quit. It's easy in theory, but when the chips are down, the weather turns bad or the forces turn against you, giving in gets easy. It's not as risky. After all, if you don't care it can't hurt...right?
Wrong.
Large and limber is a dangerous combination. It's what make's Jordy's surfing so impressive. - WSL / Ed Sloane
It's okay to care. It's worth getting emotionally invested in something you may or may not obtain. The joy is in the effort. The journey is the reward. But the payoffs come in fleeting little bursts of high emotion. Like when you win an epic match in come-from-behind fashion against a high-powered rookie in absolutely perfect surf.
After enduring years of crippling injuries, Jordy Smith has worked incredibly hard to get back where he is on the Jeep Leaderboard. He looks a lot like a contender this year. But whether or not he gets there, ever, he will never ever forget Friday at Snapper Rocks.